Just out of curiosity, has anyone done a brake upgrade/modification (past or present) using hubs with a 5 stud configuration?

Just curious as I am thinking of going down that path for a future Bellett drag car project my brother and I are toying with.

Sticky. No but I have got knock off hubs to take jag wire wheels . Gricey

Sticky. No but I have got knock off hubs to take jag wire wheels . Gricey

Now that would be different but I don't think that would meet CAMS or ANDRA requirements for a sub 10 second 2JZ turbo powered drag car.
It won't matter for the rear as a custom sheet metal Hilux diff will fill that space but the front will have to be modified for some extra stopping power so rear hubs n brakes will be part of the diff mods when the time comes (either ford or chev pattern) but front will be changed to match stud pattern of the rear.
Going to look into Nissan S14 + S15 mods as there is a ton of it on the market and there are a bunch of guys I know into the drifting scene that are playing around with brake mods using that gear all the time so may give them some legwork to do some figuring out what will work for me.

I once looked into transplanting the whole of a Gemini front end into a Bellett......... it looks feasible, especially where track etc is no issue.
Many brake conversions available too for Gemini.

That's interesting Glenn. I know there are bolt on kits for Gemini's available (not sure who does them) using VL commodore discs and volvo calipers....
I'll plant my ideas in my drifting mates minds over a couple of beers when I catch up with them next and let them fester on it for a couple of months, I'll guarantee they come up with multiple results. Especially if I give them my rusty shell with complete suspension to play with...... might come back already done

an example is here http://www.turbogemini.com/Option%203%20-%20Big%20Disks.htm

Thanks Glenn that's and excellent lead in the direction I'm going. Different to the kits I've seen in the past but same deal.
As the teardrop sedan my brother and I are building will be a quarter mile only car the lack of engineers approval for street use is not an issue anyway.

I have spoken to the guy in the link, seems to be very helpful.
the smaller rotors use a VN Commodore V6 caliper, (22mm thick disc) and the larger rotors use a V8 caliper


keep us posted on the project too

ford and hilux share the same stud pattern

Volvo calipers are overrated crap in my book.
Might be 4 spot, but they are small and use a small pad.
Also made of cast iron so heavier than they need.
Plumbing them is a joke if u have any knowledge of how they work too....
There's much better out there and alot of 4 wheel drives now use alloy 4 spots with big pads. That's why I use on my race car coz they work better than aftermarket units and are cheap.
Word of advice.... Wilwood are shit. They spread when put under hard use and then give terrible pedal feel and poor pad life.
Hub wise..... Just machine some. Use the standard ones as a pattern and turn some up in a lathe out of alloy with Ford stud pattern. Problem solved.

I agree on the Wilwood Brett, have used before and wouldn't touch again with a barge pole but I disagree with the Volvo...... BUT that's because I don't use cast iron ones. I used the early series 122 - 142 finned alloy units with a Datsun 120Y master and booster, sure plumbing them has it's quirks but I leave that to mates who are guru's with them. Ran them on a couple of my Datto's with VL rotors years ago and they were brilliant and my first ever Bellett (Ex motokana/hillclimb 64 sedan) had them too but don't know what rotors (assume Gallant as they were pretty small dia) and the brakes on it were incredible.

Yeh Greg I thought the Toyota pattern was same as Ford but wasn't 100% sure, once I come to doing shortened axles though I can choose what pattern I want and if I get some wheels I like before then, that will determine my stud pattern choice.

But..... this will be a looooong slooooow project. Donkey, Jenny and Percy will take priority with any play money. The drag car will be built whenever bits become available at swapmeets and abandoned project "fire sales". The only big ticket items however should be the turbo and engine management system, diff/rear suspension and rollcage as everything else will be done by us with mates who have had their backs scratched for years. Won't be of show quality as many drag cars are these days either as it will only see street meets, test and tune nights and of course the annual 4's and rotary Jamboree.
Our last drag project was an 929/Rx4 wagon with 20B turbo built over 3 years from what we could find cheap but then we scraped it due to Rod buying a house and his wife being pregnant. We have spent the past 8yrs talking of building another and I think it's time to start the bits collecting process again as I already have the car, engine and box I need for the build

I would avoid current ford rotors we have heaps of trouble with them warping.
Why not hilux donor car and use them as the pull up 2 ton of hilux and load ok. We run 7 hilux utes in our fleet and at maximum weight they are never empty running around the mountains and no brake issues.

that's a big chunk of alloy, needing a big lathe and some expertise. I imagine they should be heat treated also, Brett ?

A lot of the conversions around seem to use the Commodore twin spot calipers or the Turbo ones (single piston)

What is the bore of a std Bellett master cylinder? And is the bore the same on the later dual master cylinder types? I wonder if they need to be changed for some of these conversions, to get enough fluid capacity ?

A near complete donor car is always the cheapest option in the long run, as I can sell off all the leftovers. I know the right guys to get one from for next to nicks too, as long as they keep the engine and trans I can have the rest for peanuts. Only trick is being johnny on the spot because if I'm not very quick all that's left is a 1m3 lump of metal ready for smelting
......but I'm in no rush

Bellett master is 3/4.
Geoff.... How bout 6 stud? Sounds silly, but as Greg said, HiLux stuff is unbreakable and a 9 inch would be overkill (overrated in my book too), so how bout 4wd HiLux diff and axles for strength and ratios, and 6 stud front hubs off a 2wd Rodeo or something?
Would have to make front wheels, but u will anyway to get offsets right and it's easy to buy blank alloy wheels that u can have drilled to suit, and rears can be 10's or whatever suited to Patrol / Landcruiser guys use.
Just a thought, and would be cheap to source.

Hilux diff has been the plan all along Brett as will be running either 4.56 or 4.88 ratio which is what we had in the rotary wagon with a 28" slick. As the diff will be shortened to suit the Bellett with 15x10 rims, axles will be custom units in any case so the 5 stud is what will be the go but I hear where your coming from.
Sticking to common ford/chev 5 stud gives a massive range of off the shelf or cheap second hand light weight race rims in easy to obtain range of sizes too.
I wouldn't go near a ford 9" diff as they are way too heavy and drain too much HP unless you have masses of it.
We're only looking at about 500-600HP max (with a soft launch setup) so Hilux diff is perfect.

Did you ever find out if the s15 hubs fit the Bellett drum stubs.
Was thinking of these for my other project.
Can't seem to find any cheap enough to try.

Cheers
Rob

You need to talk to Lachy, he's the member of osjcc with the yellow rover v8 powered Gemini


http://www.ozgemini.com/forums/non-tech ... 33&t=48251