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as is see it with a smooth off the end of that bit you might get another chance

try getting a hammer and a punch that will fit inside the torx hole and give it a few good hard hits to try and break the threads then you may be able to get it with torx?

that was the first bit that broke, yeh given it a bash, a quick swing, a little bit of heat 100c but no go, the next one after was the expensive one that just twisted the bit, i was going to drill them out but would need to find new ones, there isn't anything really wrong with the shaft in there, just me replacing everything that has a mark.

This was the only damaged part, slight indent in 2 of the guides.

I broke a bunch of torx bits recently (snapped with rattle gun, twisted by hand), the most effective (read: least destructive) method for me ended up using a good old impact driver with a sad twisted looking bit on the end and belting the shit out of it for a while.

yeh id say it has some locktight along with a bunch of big torque from the factory

mine were damn tight when I did my auto as well, did not break any though mate - don't feel too bad as I could not get the stator out of the pump housing once I got the 3 screws out so I just replaced the bushes

I still have the other pump housing if you want it

Thanks for the offer, but going to just use it how it is and replace the bushings. Is only 2 that have marks on the top, should not impact anything at all, only bought another stator shaft cause it was cheap with the rest of the parts.

I have just completed the same prodject and found a interesting write up about conveting a 4l60/65e to full maneul....... sorry cant spell all that good anywho .... it works well tc lock up with the pwm pump a problem but im sure you could sort that out hope this helps some1.... http://jd.offroadtb.com/trans-docs/4l60 ... ersion.pdf

nice work!

good if you want to run a auto vr/vs with 12p tune and boost well that's what im {trying}.....

ive tried that manualising pdf and didnt get great results..... car was twin turbo v6, but what we found was that if you start off in first, it shifts into second ok, but 3rd wont shift for a good 10 seconds or so, which is well past when you need it to on such a powerful car and we end up limiter bashing at 2/3rds track. if we start off in 2nd gear at the lights, then shift into 3rd, it shifted absolutely fine, so that proves its not a clutch issue, but more of a valving issue. next plan is in the works...... arduino + mosfet drivers + 2 buttons on steering wheel. this way I can plug it into any 4L60E without opening it up and get full manual behaviour while using the good old 808 + $12P



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