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CQGT wrote:

My sedan rh rear cyl. has been leaking. Have changed cylinders and brake tube twice and still a problem. I've re -assembled the brakes 3 times and every time I do it I put the springs on the inside of the shoes.
Bottom spring. Turn axle flange around untill flat side is to bottom. Join the shoes together and present both to backing plate with spring going up between flange and cylinder. Mount shoes onto cylinder. Don't worry about adjuster at this time.
Top spring. Pull shoes towards you at top and fit spring into 1 of them. Using needle nose pliers grip spring on the spring coil or the wire and feed end into back of other shoe hole. Note. The longest holes apart are the holes to use. You will find by trial and error that you have selected the correct ones as the tension is a guide. Insert the top of the shoes into the pivot bracket at the top of the backing plate by pulling the shoes away from each other to go around the flats.
Check that flat bracket too see that it's not too loose or too tight. This may be the cause of the wear problem or the shoe retaining spring may have lost tension or the pin and washer may be worn.
Put the adjuster onto the cyl. and shoe. Assemble the springs/pin & washer. Put drum on. Adjust brakes as per manual.
You said you had the shoes radius ground. Did you have the drum machined. :?:

Or is that what you meant that you had both done at the same time. :?:

My biggest problem is getting the front shoe pin into the backing plate with the confined area to get fat fingers into.

Dave.

Author:	Dick [ Fri Nov 08, 2013 11:43 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Rear brakes
Glenn, You mentioned earlier the leaking of oil at the diff / propshaft seal. Think the rumble is coming from there too; unbalance of the prop shaft at the rear. Turn it 180 degrees to see if it makes a change. Dick

Author:	Glenn [ Fri Nov 08, 2013 10:17 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Rear brakes
Dick wrote: Glenn, You mentioned earlier the leaking of oil at the diff / propshaft seal. Think the rumble is coming from there too; unbalance of the prop shaft at the rear. Turn it 180 degrees to see if it makes a change Dick I don't think thats the problem. Its a broad range of speeds that it occurs at, from 75kph to 100 or so. I can hear a clunking "noise" emanating from the left rear of the car which suggests the brakes are the problem. And the wear on the shoe suggests this is the area. I can hear a noise also after i apply and release the brakes, pointing again to the issue i have found in the picture. This car has the rubber donut rear and not a uni so i don't think phasing is a problem with this setup? Do you have the rear seal dimensions, Dick? My supplier would have to get in what ever i use so i need to have it right and before i pull things apart. (sorry for no earlier reply, but I can't get the rack rubbers we spoke of, for now) Glenn

Author:	gt orphanage [ Sat Nov 09, 2013 11:38 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Rear brakes
Glenn I am not home atm but I can measure on Monday if you have no answer.

Author:	Glenn [ Sat Nov 09, 2013 9:14 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Rear brakes
gt orphanage wrote: Glenn I am not home atm but I can measure on Monday if you have no answer. That's fine. I can't do much now until Wednesday anyway.

Author:	CQGT [ Fri Nov 15, 2013 12:42 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Rear brakes
My sedan rh rear cyl. has been leaking. Have changed cylinders and brake tube twice and still a problem. I've re -assembled the brakes 3 times and every time I do it I put the springs on the inside of the shoes. Bottom spring. Turn axle flange around untill flat side is to bottom. Join the shoes together and present both to backing plate with spring going up between flange and cylinder. Mount shoes onto cylinder. Don't worry about adjuster at this time. Top spring. Pull shoes towards you at top and fit spring into 1 of them. Using needle nose pliers grip spring on the spring coil or the wire and feed end into back of other shoe hole. Note. The longest holes apart are the holes to use. You will find by trial and error that you have selected the correct ones as the tension is a guide. Insert the top of the shoes into the pivot bracket at the top of the backing plate by pulling the shoes away from each other to go around the flats. Check that flat bracket too see that it's not too loose or too tight. This may be the cause of the wear problem or the shoe retaining spring may have lost tension or the pin and washer may be worn. Put the adjuster onto the cyl. and shoe. Assemble the springs/pin & washer. Put drum on. Adjust brakes as per manual. You said you had the shoes radius ground. Did you have the drum machined. Or is that what you meant that you had both done at the same time. My biggest problem is getting the front shoe pin into the backing plate with the confined area to get fat fingers into. Dave.

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Rear brakes https://delcohacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=2547	Page 1 of 1

Author:	Glenn [ Fri Nov 15, 2013 8:57 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Rear brakes
CQGT wrote: My sedan rh rear cyl. has been leaking. Have changed cylinders and brake tube twice and still a problem. I've re -assembled the brakes 3 times and every time I do it I put the springs on the inside of the shoes. Bottom spring. Turn axle flange around untill flat side is to bottom. Join the shoes together and present both to backing plate with spring going up between flange and cylinder. Mount shoes onto cylinder. Don't worry about adjuster at this time. Top spring. Pull shoes towards you at top and fit spring into 1 of them. Using needle nose pliers grip spring on the spring coil or the wire and feed end into back of other shoe hole. Note. The longest holes apart are the holes to use. You will find by trial and error that you have selected the correct ones as the tension is a guide. Insert the top of the shoes into the pivot bracket at the top of the backing plate by pulling the shoes away from each other to go around the flats. Check that flat bracket too see that it's not too loose or too tight. This may be the cause of the wear problem or the shoe retaining spring may have lost tension or the pin and washer may be worn. Put the adjuster onto the cyl. and shoe. Assemble the springs/pin & washer. Put drum on. Adjust brakes as per manual. You said you had the shoes radius ground. Did you have the drum machined. Or is that what you meant that you had both done at the same time. My biggest problem is getting the front shoe pin into the backing plate with the confined area to get fat fingers into. Dave. Thanks for info Dave. Will try again asap. For now i have backed off the adjustment slightly and today i will take it out and try it again. ( I have to run an errand with the trailer this morning) glenn

Author:	CQGT [ Sat Nov 16, 2013 11:09 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Rear brakes
Glenn. Had the GTdiff. done up sometime back. Reconditioner sent back old parts. Pinion seal size. 35/65/12mm. Flaseal 17446 or Repco P4768. Side carrier or output seal. 30/60/9mm. These have a dust seal moulded and gives a thickness to 17mm. Flaseal up to'65. 17456. Repco P4794. From '65. Flaseal 17461. Repco P4894. These part no's I've had for quiete some time. If you tried local Bursons/Repco store the assistant may not know what your on about. CBC bearings might. I believe they have archived their old part numbers but can retrieve them when required. If anyone is chasing the side carrier seals you may not get them with the dustseal on it. Dave.

Author:	Glenn [ Sat Nov 16, 2013 9:52 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Rear brakes
Many Thanks, Dave fantastic information. Will try to get seal this coming week. Glenn

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