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Electronic points conversion 
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Joined: Sat Sep 26, 2009 10:55 am
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Location: Adelaide
Car(s): BA Falcon, 68 Bellett
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Thanks to Chris for finding this.
Now the 64 Bellett dollar question (they are worth a million afterall :D ).
Has anyone had any experience of these.

http://www.hot-spark.com/1-Hitachi-Distributors.htm



They seem to be a reasonable price (even coming from the US).

Cheers
Rob


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Sat Jul 31, 2010 2:21 am
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i'd say you'd need to be the trail blazer rob!
but my advice... i'd still be getting the whole distributor reco'd and recurved, as putting any electronic conversion in one that hasn't been checked won't fix the problems by itself.
cheers.


Sun Aug 01, 2010 10:54 am
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Location: Cranbourne Victoria
Car(s): Isuzu DMax LSU, Isuzu MUX, 1979 117 Coupe.
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My old late model had Pirahana ignition fitted. It was terrific. Till some one told me that i could shorten a lead just ny cutting it. What an expensive cut that was.
http://piranhaoffroad.com.au/index.php/ ... ition.html
I concur with Brett get the dizzy overhauled as well it will save any major grief later.

Peter

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Sun Aug 01, 2010 11:10 am
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Car(s): BA Falcon, 68 Bellett
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Thanks for the advice guys.
Will see how it goes.

Cheers
Rob

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Sun Aug 01, 2010 12:23 pm
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hey rob, just a suggestion mate....
that electronic conversion looks like a simple points replacement idea, and doesn't require a total re-hash of the whole dist. obviously there would be some wiring mods to the coil tho, but the other dist. internals stay untouched. am i right?
if so, how about getting the dist. reco'd first, with the points in place, as that will make a big difference, then get the elec. conver. when the funds allow later? that way, youre not going to waste, or even compromise, the new elec parts in a dud distributor.
honestly, i reckon a reco and recurve will do more for your situation than just an elec. conver. at the moment, coz while elec. is always better, points are still OK if you keep an eye on them.
a thought, is all.


Sun Aug 01, 2010 12:42 pm
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Car(s): 1967 Bellett Auto Sedan
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This may be a little late, but the N13 Pulsar electronic dizzy works fine. You just need a spacer to take up the extra shaft length. Sorry can't remember the size of the spacer. Think it was 6mm.

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Wed Jan 05, 2011 5:00 am
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Oops, should have posted a bit earlier.
Thanx PR20Auto for bumping the thread up.

The Hot-Spark points conversion works great.
Just bolt in and away I went, the ignition was about the only thing that didn't miss a beat in 2000 odd km's.
I didn't get the distributor recurved or rebuilt thats for later. I just used the best pieces from all the distributors I had laying around.

Just make sure you have the correct coil to suit the conversion.
I got to together with a couple of others on the forum and we bought 3 sets to bring the postage costs down.

Highly recommended conversion.

Cheers
Rob

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Fri Jan 07, 2011 5:08 am
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Location: Netherlands / Holland
Car(s): Isuzu Bellett 1600 Sport SOHC, Honda City 2006, Honda CRV 2010, Vespa P150
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Another manufacturer for points replacement is Pertronix (model 1741). They have their own website off course www.pertronix.com/ , but can also be found on Ebay.


Fri Jan 07, 2011 8:34 am
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Location: Hobart
Car(s): 1970 Bellett, 1968 Bellett, Triumph Stag, 1940 Traction Avant, T Ford 1938 Pontiac plus the usual modern stuff
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Thanks for finding the elecronic conversion Chris. I think it was a good find.

After your initial post a while back I ordered a module with coil for the racing machine and have been informed that it is now at the post office awaiting collection.
The price seemed very good considering that some other conversions are quoted at around $400 - $500.

I'm also getting my dizzie reconditioned to go with it all.

Hoping you all had a good New Year

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Sat Jan 08, 2011 11:44 am
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Car(s): '72 Sport Bellett (imported 180912), M/B AMG A35, i30, had Belletts in past, 2 sed, 3 GT's.
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PR20 Auto wrote:
This may be a little late, but the N13 Pulsar electronic dizzy works fine. You just need a spacer to take up the extra shaft length. Sorry can't remember the size of the spacer. Think it was 6mm.

[url][/url]

This is an older thread but wondering which engine in the Pulsar? 1.6 or 2 litre engine or are they both the same distributor.

anybody know?

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Tue Apr 03, 2012 9:19 am
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Glenn.

N13 pulsar ran a 1.6 & a 1.8 Holden engine using their own Delco distributor. Holden had the Astra series and Nissan the
Pulsar N12 & N13. The N12 was rebadged for Holden and was Nissan engine, driveline & body. The original engines had points
distributors untill, I think, up to '86/7 & then went to electronic. These were Hitachi distributors. The LD Astra had a Holden
engine with Nissan driveline and body. Nissan with sedan & hatch. Holden, hatch only. THe engines were part of Holden's family series similar to the Camira.
Nissan then brought out the N14 series, made in Australia, up to December '92. From this date all Nissans ceased production
in Australia and were all made in Japan. They ran the GA16DE & the SR20DE engines, in the Aust. & Japan build. The 1.6L had a Hitachi electronic & the 2.0L had either a Hitachi or Mitsubishi, depending on year of manufacture & what was available
on the production line at the time. Holden never had a vehicle smilar to the Nissan range. I think Toyota came into the frey at this time.
There is a thread on this forum where gt orphanage explains step by step on how to fit a Pulsar distributor. Greg will correct me if I am wrong.
I hope this will give you and the forum members a bit more information on what distributors to look for.

Dave.

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Wed Apr 04, 2012 12:38 pm
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No Dave i have not done this conversion, the thread your thinking of is running rb gemini in a twin cam. This will activate the pulsar n14/delco injection or just run alectronic ign.


Wed Apr 04, 2012 6:47 pm
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so, a GA16DE engine would have the right distributor then ?

these are OHC engines though and i think the Dizzy runs off the cam so would have a very short shaft on it ?

can we pin this down a bit more.

glenn

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Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:57 pm
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G'day Glen, The distributors on the 1.6 and the 1.8 are the same. They both run the same head.
You need to remove the helical gear on the N13 distributor by drilling or knocking it out and replacing it with the Bellett gear (which is also pinned on). you need to make a 5mm thick aluminium plate roughly trochoidal in shape (like an RX7 rotor). You need to copy the curved adjustment slot on the Bellett distributor on one long side (somewhere I've got a drawing for this but it seems to have been buried in Bellett stuff, I'll try to find it). In the centre there is a hole sized to fit the bottom of the N13 dizzy. On the opposite side to the curved slot you need to drill and tap a hole to take the adjustment bolt on the N13 dizzy so you can bolt it in place. This means you reverse the direction of the mounting so that the vaccuum advance is at the back of the motor where it should be and the No. 1 lead is where a Bellett's is. Alternatively you can turn the plate 180 deg. and use the Bellett adjustment bolt to pin it in place and use the curved slot with a bolt and nut as adjustment (but this doesn't look Bellettish).
Does this make sense so far?

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Thu Apr 05, 2012 12:08 am
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Mostly ok but the '1.8' confuses me. There wasn't a 1.8 at the time of the 1.6 and 2 litre DOHC engines at the time i am thinking of ?
We had a '93 SSS and a 1.6 Q a few years earlier at one stage but can't recall the 'N" series number now. (getting old)

can you pin down the years that these Dizzys would suit the conversion.

Then, with parts in hand, i am sure your desciption would make it very easy.

I take it you need some sort of ignitor or electronics box to go with this ?

glenn

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Thu Apr 05, 2012 12:45 am
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The model that came out as a 1.6 and 2.0 twin cam is the n14, the n13 is the model that sold as the Astra as well.


Sat Apr 07, 2012 4:23 am
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Glenn,
The N13 was a 1.6 or a 1.8. '86 to '90. Stick to the 1.6 if you're unsure. I'm pretty sure that's the model. Anyway if you take a Bellett dizzy and find the Pulsar one that looks most like it at the bottom end (but 5 or 6mm longer) you'll have the right one. The diameter of the bottom bit is the same so the O ring seal fits in the Bellett block. The dizzy has it's own IC. The internal IC is black, about the size of your thumb and has a ring attached. The model before it had two plugs because it had an external IC (I think that's the one that the Camira used). You don't want that one. This one has one plug and two wires (12 volt and trigger) the points wire goes to the back of the distributor, the dizzy earths itself. You can use a Bellett coil if you like but you may as well use the high energy Pulsar one.

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Sun Apr 08, 2012 1:31 am
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cheers for clarifying that! i might have to go hunt a few down! would be nice to get rid of the points!

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Sun Apr 08, 2012 1:44 am
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Thanks Greg. I new I had my wires crossed somewhere and you would correct me. Delco came to mind at the time, not thinking injection systems.

PR20 Auto,
The Delco distributor that I'm thinking of has a base of about 70mm dia. with a 'o' ring in that base and the high tension wires
are connected at the top to a male terminal the same as a spark lug. There is no vacuum advance and the distributor bolts into the end of the camshaft housing. No deep housing,nearly flush. Not into the block the same as a Isuzu. Would you be thinking of the last of the N12 series that had electronic ignition and fitted the same into the block as per Isuzu. ??.

Dave.

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Tue Apr 10, 2012 12:43 pm
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Sorry this took a little longer than I expected, but had to get the part number off the distributor (thanks Paul). It's an Hitachi number D4R80-11 (22100-12M00 or 02 or 03). This makes it off an N12 Pulsar NOT an N13 (sorry about the bum steer). So, if you look for that part number you can't go wrong.

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Tue Apr 24, 2012 1:11 am
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