Does anyone know if you can still get rebuild kits for G150's? Or any engine parts for that matter? Valves, pistons etc?

I haven't started looking around but figured someone here would know the answer and save me a hell of a lot of effort

Cheers,
Ross

i have the part number "CJ161" floating around in my head, but i can't remember if it's a VRS kit or a full gasket kit, or if it's 1500 or 1600 tho... at least that might give you a starting point to go from??
i know alot of guys get the 1500 block bored to take standard 1600 Gemini pistons and rods, so then you can use standard Gemini rings and bearings too. this takes the capacity to 1622cc, i think, but don't quote me on that one... from memory here again!!

i'll see if i can find out some more.

I got a complete rebuild kit back in 2003 for my standard 1500cc engine from Dalby Autopro - they were very helpful via email and on the phone.
It comprised of:
VRS Gasket set
4 x Pistons (.0030 over) rings and bearings.

I will have a look in my files to see what I have on it regarding part numbers etc.

This is how it turned out:


Neil
Darwin

Awesome looking G150! My rebuild won't look nearly as nice as that but it does give me somehting to work towards

Thanks for the responses so far guys, much appreciated.

Cheers,
RS.

Cheers,

The guy at the chrome platers/polishers LOVED me for a few months

That is the first engine I have every built - and it is still going strong.

crusing some old posts and that engine re-build on the G150 is an awesome job there Redback!

i am sure you have enjoyed driving that car for many years after doing such a good job.



OZ

what a bloody great job ..cheers davo

Number for the gasket kit either top end or whole thing would be great.

Cheers
Rob

cj151 chev luv vrs kit [top end] manifold gasket will not fit. I have them if you want 1.

Hi,
If you can't find the topend rebuild or full gasket set for your engine I might be of help; I have several on the shelf
gr Dick

Hey Oz,

I will scrounge around for the numbers but as a backup I have used Dick for parts previously and his gear is top shelf and reliable mate!

Cheers Neil

Hey Rob,

Just had a look around in the shed and found the invoice and part numbers for you.

I got them from Dalby Auto Pro in 2004

I had to use 2 different kits to seal up the engine.

Conversion Gasket Set - G to suit Isuzu 1964-67 Bellett 1500 PR20
EJ140 and it cost $63.00

And also used Chevrolet Isuzu Luv 1969-72 G 161 Engine
FJ151 which cost $160.00

Here is their contact details
www.autoprodalby.com.au

07 4662 5844


Cheers and hope that helps

Hey Brains Trust,

I am probably going to rebuild the spare engine I have in my shed - I am bored and wanted to get my hands dirty again........

This is going to be a "Hot One" High compression, built for perfomance - angry hopefully.

I am wondering what size it is - 1500cc or 1300cc

Can any of you shed some light on it please: so I can make sure I order correct parts etc

Photos of markings:
Left Side has Japanese Symbols then13 101

Right Side has:
B
G185

I have a 3 speed manual I will probably use - just for something different.

Any advice or help is appreciated.

Cheers,
Neil

Neil.

G130 bore size 75mm. 1325cc. G150 79mm. 1471cc.
Going by the sump and the front engine mount foot and starter it's probably a 3 bearing donk.
Has the engine number got a prefix on it or is it like most that I have seen just a number.??
Is there no model number above the fuel pump mount hole.?? Very strange if not.

Dave.

Hello Dave,

Thanks for the reply - yes it is a 3 bearing motor and I cannot remember seeing a model number above the fuel pump or the engine number - I will investigate this evening and measure up some bores.

I have a mate who works in a engine machining shop so I am hopefully going to look over his shoulder and learn some interesting machining stuff in the near future.

I will keep updating this one.

Cheers,
Neil

Would be rrrrrreal unusual to have a 1300cc engine but stranger things have happened.
3 bearing main engines go really well but dont run them at high RPM for long periods of time!!
due to the flex in the crank, you will eventually start to chew thru the bearings.
better to do a 5 bearing main if you want reliability and give it some extra go.

or do basic rebuild on this and drop it to replace the other engine and go hard on it instead.

keep us posted with plenty of pics


OZ

Yep thanks Dave for reminding me of the engine number ( has the size at the start) sorry.

Okay it is a G150, three bearing engine.

Onwards and upwards.

Anyone with a good oil pump and water pump?

Neil.
Are you going to give the block and cyl. head a acid bath. ?? Going by the amount of crudd that's showing in your photos it will need one. Back in the early days of when I started in the motor industry, [Dec. '66], radiator coolant or inhibitor was never mentioned to put into a motorcar. The only engine manufacturer at that time that I was aware of that used a coolant inhibitor was Cummins. These engines were fitted to the IHC ACCO. In 1975 I changed jobs and started working for the GMH dealer.This is when I had an introduction to coolant inhibitor and only if you were going to go to the 'Snowys'. Later it was part of the service and is now used extensivly by all motor manufacturers.
Three years ago I was trying to get my sedan to 'Coona' for the Nationals. As my original engine was at the rebuilders fitting Gemini internals to it, I have a '66 sedan and I decided to put the motor and gearbox into the '69. After giving it a good clean with a pressure cleaner it was looking good enough for a coat of paint and throw it into the car.
I'm sitting there admiring our handywork and I saw this brown pinhead dot on 1 of the welch plugs. Got the screwdriver and give it a scrape. Well that mark got bigger and lots of water was coming out and it wasn't clear. I thought I flushed the block thoroughly. The amount of muck that came out of that hole after I removed the plug was unbeleivable. Subesquently no sedan to the Nationals, but I took the GT.
On the phone the next day and enquired about the rebuild engine and what was the condition overall. First up it gets a acid bath. Second. After the maching etc. all plugs are replaced and including the camshaft bearings. The water outlet for the thermostat I knew was RS. The front of the head [alloy]and mainly where the thermostat is recessed had to be filled with metal,ground and machined because there was never any inhibitor used. At this stage your all thinking that it's another one of Daves' RANTS and I'm in the wrong section of the forum.
I can assure you that it's not a RANT and I cannot emphasize enough that if anyone intends doing an engine up don't cut corners . Have the engine given a bath. Replace all plugs and use inhibitor.

Dave.

Welch plugs and muck

just make sure you can get cam bearings before you go acid bathing it they are a little hard to find