very strange that. I searched the web and could find noting about it being illegal. Plenty of kits available and advice on how to paint them though. Nothing about stripping them !!!

yes you are right on the grass type. Most years here in Melb. the grassdies off but last 2 years it's been pretty good.
glenn

I wrote to the Japanese owner of the car and received a reply, wishing me a long happy life with the Sport.

glenn

Hi Glenn, as others have said, it's a great result. A leap of faith and an epic project, but to me seems to have been done in great time. You have a unique Bellett now. I'm looking forward to seeing her in the metal, please say you will take her to Adelaide.
Congrats mate, great job.

Cheers, Matt.

Can't promise but will try. We stayed in Adelaide a few days last year and loved it.

Not sure if you have done bay to Birdwood previous years Glenn, BUT it is a fabulous Event, I was there less GT, in 2009 had a ball, I was in the fastest Bellett sedan over there, Gary Carter's!!
We led the Belletts that is why I did not get many photos or video of the cars travelling along the way to Birdwood .

I would be there except I think at this time I could be in other locations.
Dave M.

a few little things to tidy up on the Sport. ODO meter not working was one.
Pulled it apart and found the numbered wheels all jammed on the shaft so after a lot of mucking about,. managed to get them all off the shaft and cleaned and lightly oiled it, put everything back. And no, I didn't wind it back

Interesting on these late models, the speedo drive cable comes out at an angle. There is an angle drive adapter setup on the rear, part of the speedo. There is also a little electronic pickup inside the speedo. I don't know what it's for as the owners manual diagram does not even show it. It connects into that little box in the centre of the picture with one wire going into the main loom.

Next, to get the fuel gauge working.

As for the little box, a lot of Japanese cars have a buzzer that goes off at 100km/h, could be that.

Flight Recorder?

i think you might be right on that one. Haven't been over 100kph in it yet.... will have to though

Glenn,

Gees, If you can pull those apart and put them back together, can regulate the speedo's???
My speedo is reading fast you can have a go at mine

yea glenn could you run mine back and make it lower mileage then it will drive better because it would have travelled less miles ...............duh ...cheers davo

LOL it's actually simple to do, but no guarantee it will help Dave

The Tacho is interesting also in these (i assume) late models. It has two adjustments in back of the unit. I assume to zero it and set calibrate rpm
My GT had no such thing.

glenn

Luckily Donkey doesn't have a 100kph buzzer or is that the annoying noise I hear every time we go cruising/racing.
I'm yet to see if he has a 100MPH buzzer though, nothing at 97MPH other than the groaning of wheel bearings.

I'll have a good crack at ringing the 100MPH buzzer once the new uni's go in, no point in re-calibrating his odometer as he only shows 14000 odd mile anyway. Spring chicken

Fuel gauge not working:

might help somebody with gauge issues. My fuel gauge was not working so eliminated the gauge by disconnecting the sender and shorting the wire to chassis. The gauge should show full.

That left the sender. I pulled it apart and cleaned the contacts to no avail, then after a short drive, the gauge worked again....... but stopped after a while. [actually the short drive was to get a sender from a spare tank that was with the spare car, which also proved to be a dud. It was also different, having a much shorter arm on the float. This might lend some weight to the 'rumour' that later cars and GTR's initially, had a slightly larger fuel tank, so the sender lever would need to be longer also ??]

I found that the terminal connection was intermittent inside the sender. I soldered a piece of wire from the brass terminal, to the solder lug and it's fixed.

I also found that the sender would read empty on the guage when the float was in the 'full' position. Bending the little 'end stop' tab inwards fixed that problem. If you have an ohm meter, the sender resistance should be close to zero ohms when full, about 50 ohms in the centre and 150 ohms when in the lowest, empty position.

Glenn,
My GT had the angle drive on the back of the speedo head. My observation was that it reduced the angle the speedo cable when it went through the firewall. As all models have the fusebox mounted in front of the instrument panel, the cable has to traverse at an angle that is too much and in later years jams and breaks. It goes the same, for the angle from out of the speed driven gear, being a reduced radius. Creating a larger arc or longer cable will alleviate the problem on the transmission end.
The speedo head on the GT has been repaired. I sent it to Rockhampton to a instrument repairer and with the internals of a standard speedo he repaired it keeping the original face. So. I'm back to an acute angle on the cable. Got the brain ticking over for a modification. And. My Gt hasen't got the "speed sensor".
Thanks for the tip on the fuel sender. My first car, 67 PR20, had sender problems found that the terminal on top of unit was shorting out. I drilled the rivet out and inserted a nylon bush and used a fine thread screw and bolted all together.
Having trouble with my sedan,68/9 PR20, with fuel sender. DAVO gave me a sender that may get me out of trouble. Will look at your 'fix' and use his unit to repair the problem. Took the 1 out of the GT and doing same. Or should I say. Not doing anything.
If dave,PR95 and yourself received operators manuals with your cars to have a look at the capacity listed. I never got 1 with mine. Have been looking. Maybe someone with a parts book for GT can have a look to see if there are more than 1 gasolene tank available. Diesel will be listed as well.

Dave.

Hi Dave, there is another difference with speedo in that the cable on the PR60 and I assume late models, comes out out through the flat section of the firewall. ie adjacent to the coil. Pretty sure earlier models, it comes out of the more vertical section under the windscreen ?. { or my memory is shot}

For such a simple fuel gauge system there are a number of possible problem areas. But especially if you have an ohm meter, the sender can be diagnosed fairly easily i think.

Conversely, if you get/buy a 47 ohm and a 150 ohm resistor from Jaycar or similar place, you can disconnect the sender and fit either resistor to ground and the gauge should show half or empty.


I have the owners manual for the PR60, in japanese of course and unable so far to decipher a few things. What i can find in the general description of the engine etc it 'SU" carbs and on a line under it, 46L which suggests maybe it is the tank capacity ? Normal is 40litres frommemory (8.8 gallons) so this would make it close to 10 gallons.

One thing I can't find is engine oil capacity with filter change. I changed oil and filter and had to add about 4.5 litres of oil.


good luck with the gauges.

glenn

ref the tank,

if i get under the car with a tape measure and measure in the drain plug area, from the top mounting face down to the flat area where the plug is, the distance is ~180mm. Top of the tank is just below boot floor level.

Another clue is that the tank hangs visibly lower than the bottom of the rear pan. {must clean that overspray off too }

Maybe somebody can measure theirs to see what difference there is if any, on early cars.

That fuel tank issue is interesting, you will have to test it out once you get it on the road to an Event
Over spray tut, tut

I wouldn't know how to use an OHM meter I know my gauge at times stays on empty until I have driven about 80 100 miles, then it comes good. I had a new sender which I fitted, so I gather it must be the gauge, got a spare gauge
That maybe why I ran out of fuel on my way to Orange Gnoo Blas Car Show to meet up with Gary Smith some years ago, Gary got a good laugh out of me that day
I don't give it a chance any more, I fill every time I leave home.

A week to go now for CARnivale', we are still a couple of cars short, but still hunting, will let you know how we go
Catch ya, D.

Hi Dave

the Bellett gauge is always "tricky" at the E end. I think a way to make you re-fill but actually still plenty left. The trick is to know just how 'accurate' that end is ! I was going to only put a few litres in the tank to check it out when i got the car but thwarted by the faulty sender.

But it appears to me, that the tank is in fact larger on these late models and maybe on all the GT-R's also ?

Funny, i masked off the rear but still got some blow by onto the tank somehow. Meant to clean it sooner but in the rush to get H plates, left it. Better do it now

OK Dave, you shamed me into fixing the overspray on the wekend.

With the sender, while it was out being fixed, i dipped the tank to see the level. Then i put the sender back in with 2 screws only and checked the KNOWN level. I then bent the sender arm a little until i got the gauge to read correctly. { the actual slider contact arm can also be adjusted to do this but bending the arm a little was quicker.} In this case i had a half a tank of fuel so fiddled until the gauge ready 1/2 also. It remains to be seen now, just what happens at the empty end ! I will carry spare fuel until I know

Be very carefull if you do this, NO SPARKS.

glenn