Oh hells yeah! We're back in the game!!!

good news ....did you get 2 ?????

Mate, if I come across another I'll be onto it in a flash...at $80 this went cheap though, they normally bid over $100. Using Import Monster the end price is usually double the winning price, so this kit's costing me $160 landed.

Oh, and I got the shroud, money's on the way Davo, sorry for the delay! Many thanks mate.

Latest snag...inlet manifold pipe has rusted out and one bolt snapped off during removal...just not sure which end. I need one pipe (I believe it is the upper pipe, inside the red rectangle) and bolt (refer pics below). I assume these are quite unobtainable, but can anyone help?

This is going on 4 months now, I'm desperate to get the little guy back.

Hi
Well for what I know it depends whether you want to remain 100% origional or just want to get 'function over form'
You can re-tap the threads probable m12 x 1.25 from memory
Banjo bolts readily available
Enzed or other hydraulic specialist could make you a custom braided line either for the banjo fitting
Or straight screw into the taped holes
Alternately..... Blank off the water pump or bypass the inlet and connect directly
To heater which is what I have done in Bella and alls good but it is cooler in Tassie
Cheers
J

I have had a quote...about $400 (copper pipe)! There's been far to many additional $300-$400 jobs on this rebuild, I can't afford to keep going.

I hear that.....
Just bypass it... It was an old school idea more suited to Japanese climate
Move on and be happy

J

It's to warm the carby in Winter? If I can live without it I'll see if I can just block it off. He still needs to disassemble half the friggin' engine bay to get to it (now the motor's back in) and remove the carbies to tap out the old thread. There's a manifold on Yahoo Auctions with half a shattered bolt still in it, so not an uncommon problem I notice.

Well I can speak from 1st hand experience.. Mine runs absolutely sweet
Only to heat induction at start up then useless
My race mechanic also said don't bother
Next problem???? Bring it on
Cheers
J

easy to make them yourself if you can get somebody to braze them for you. Your local friendly plumber perhaps....a mate even

Enzed etc have the fittings, also the Bundy pipe. There are no sharrp bends so you can hand form the pipe with the fittings fitted to the engine. Once happy with fit, mark and remove to get brazed. When i did this i then got them plated also.

Alright, it's back! I received a hell of a shock when I received the bill (almost as much as I paid for the car), but here's the result:

> Rebuilt engine to original specs
> Engine port matched and balanced
> Rebuilt alternator
> Rebuilt starter motor
> Rebuilt water pump
> New radiator core
> New engine mounts
> Countless parts cleaned and repaired
> Carbies stripped, cleaned and set up
> Engine bay rust repaired and re-sprayed

The little thing is as tight as tight can be at the moment, still requires running in. It runs completely differently, sounds completely different, a lot smoother and more urgent than previous. Pretty happy so far, although the bank account is empty.

The only potential issue is low level vibration at idle which wasn't there before, disappears at around 1,500rpm. Could be that the engine is so tight, or perhaps new engine mounts are a bit harder in combination with a couple brackets missing from the exhaust system? I only hope its not the balancing, but doubt it. Will continue to run in and see what happens. Any thoughts gang?

Hi
Well Done
I am Not taking the piss when I say it is crucial for the first 100 km that
You drive it like u stole it
Load the engine and rev through gears up hills
Use engine breaking to bed in rings
Change oil lots.... It's cheap..
Use penrite as has high zinc content

Check this out

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Days of babying at break in well and truely gone
Cheers and enjoy
J

Looks great .... and will go great also.

If you want to paint the oil 'thingy' there's a pressure pack paint that is very close to same colour, off the shelf.

Cheers guys, yes the intention was to drive it like a bat outta hell, but unfortunately I just can't find the time to take it for a blast...might have to wait until next weekend. So far it's done 30-odd kms all stuck in city traffic.

The oil thingy looks like a Ford colour...definitely needs doing. Was hoping to throw the air filter housings and horn faces in with the Bond chroming, but the sheer cost of the rebuild means there's no way I'll be doing anything on the Bond any time soon.

Few mystery items...does anyone know what should be in these vacated screw holes?

Rings bed-in in 1st 50km
City traffic Very Bad for this as Is Highway cruising at a constant throttle
It can effect the cars performance it's entire life so be warned
Last photo is for windscreen washer squirted
2nd last is for another black bracket like the one in the photo. 1 bracket for the bonnet release and the 2nd ( fitted in ur photo) for the speedo / odometer cable. It looks like ur bonnet release cable is heapem short
Cheers
J

The last photo is the standard windscreen washer tubes - I can photograph mine if you want.

The others I can check tonight.

Neil

Thanks Neil,

The washers that are on the car have always been there while I've owned it, so haven't seen the originals up close. Other parts have been removed or stuffed around with either over the years, or when the car was reassembled recently.

Sounds like I need an additional bracket for my speedo cable at least. I managed to procure a GT speedo from Japan (mine has a sedan speedo installed), so will check to see if it works okay then install and get the assembly right at the same time.

Thanks for the help guys!

Hi Duane,
When I first built the Wasp it had a vibration at low revs too. I put it down to the new engine mounts not having as much give in them. I still have a little vibration, but the Wasp has not really done lot of K's, so is still pretty tight.
Yours is looking good.
I can't wait to get my GT underway.

Hi Dwayne

Photo one

Left to Right Speedo, Bonnet Latch Choke Cable

Photo 2
AFIK Original Washer Nozzles

Photo 3
Washer Hoses

Photo 4
Holes by the remote starter have been blanks for this model

Hope this helps
Flying

that blue is ''Bermuda blue'' I think its a white king paint from Bunnings I took of my acccelarator rod at the back and stripped it then had it powder coated ,,its all fidly stuff now and its looking good mate ...cheers davo