Hi Everyone,

I have been having trouble with the Nikki carb on my LUV. Sticking high idle at times, popping at idle, Air leaks, worn linkages and general other annoyances.
Now I could rebuild the Nikki but that wouldn't fit the worn linkages and if the castings are warped I might still have air leaks etc.

I am thinking of replacing it with a Weber DGV 32/36 progressive on an adapter plate which can be bought new and linkages are available to adapt to pretty much anything.

Has someone done this on a G161 before? I would be interested to see a picture of your setup. Any jetting tips or handy hits would also be appreciated.

If anyone has an argument to keep the Nikki or try another carb I am also all ears.

Nick

Hi
Great carby for G161
Standard getting of 32/36 DGV with manual choke

140 primary jet /135 secondary jets
165 primary /160 secondary air corrector
Idles jets 55/50

I have a lumpy cam so my set up is

135/145 jets
150/150 air corrector
Idles 55/55

Note 6 grades of air correctors equates to one size fuel jet

Here is a great link on how to tune. Once set up shouldn't need to adjust for years
http://www.datsun2000.com/tech/weber_tu ... dology.htm

Re linkages simply remove the end of the throttle linkage from the Nikki and bolt onto the Weber..... Job done

Don't run more than 4psi fuel pressure
Re adaptor plate may need to port match to the carb with a round file..no biggie
Cheers
J

Thanks Asroc66 that's exactly what I was after!

Hi Asroc66

How did you get the throttle cable adjustment mount to work? I have the carb and have a copy of the Nikki throttle arm on there but need to adapt the adjustment mount somehow.

Hi
I think you may have a Gemini g160z motor????
Mine is a Bellett G160/161 motor
Bellett use throttle linkages and shaft rather than cables. You can see the final throttle shaft in the first photo disconnected
If I am right then I don't know as the only cable I connected was the choke which I later removed as on the 32/36 weber it's pretty well useless.... 2 full slow pumps of throttle on cold mornings, hold throttle 1/4 way, turn key and fires right up
If I am right then perhaps you could contact
GEM Parts on eBay, just type in weber 32/36 as they supply heaps of parts
If you do indeed have the Bellett Motor then I sources longer bolts and spaced the final pivot block away from the fire wall and moved the lever arm along the final shaft.....later on I came across a Thicker pivot block from a GT I think and returned it all to origional mounting points on the fire wall
Cheers
J

Ah yes, I see the differences in the linkage.

I definetely have the G161 OHV motor however in a Chev Luv the throttle is cable operated. It has a bracket that mounts the outer cable and creates an adjustment point and there is a barrel style knob on the end of the inner cable which connects to the throttle wheel.

I have the carb mounted and everything but the throttle cable connected now. I will have to fab up a bracket to mount the cable stop off one of the manifold brackets.

Thanks again.

Nick

Whats the intake manifold in the pic ?

Florian / late g160 square port Bellett

Ah ok i have a lot to learn haha

I made a bracket quickly to support the throttle cable stop. Not the prettiest setup but it works.
Will need to change to a solid inner choke cable as it won't disengage when pushed back in currently.

It runs though. And sounds quite happy after a quick idle screw adjustment. Haven't taken it for a drive yet as The aircleaner I had wont fit with the manual choke in the way.

Rigged the aircleaner with a couple of zip ties.

Can report that it runs rather well. I think the primary main may be a tiny bit off but all in all, much smoother than the Nikki and no air leaks!
Can't detect a whiff of power increase whatsoever however I didn't bother to match port the manifold and there is certainly some porting that could be done.

Good to hear
The Nikki is a good carby and performance wise is pretty good until it wears.
With weber it is designed to drive predominately on the primary circuit.... The secondary comes in at about 85% primary with a mechanical cam action
If it dies in the arse its lean
If it is dowy, sluggish and improved with speed and revs it is rich...
This doesn't even address when secondary circuit comes in
It is a black art but like I said, once set up you can forget it
Cheers
J