I bought mine from a Bursons, walked in and bought them off the shelf. Don't remember how much, but super easy to get.
The only problem was getting a socket for the nut on the upper ball joint, had to order that in.
The tie rod ends are readily available too, not at all like a Bellett.

I bought a big old open end spanner for the nut I found on Ebay too for $21.65 inc post
Then also got tie rod ends for about $80 with free delivery from the same seller I got the ball joints from.
Happy days

You got me thinking about the grill badge Dave as I knew I had seen the same one somewhere else..... and I found the picture.
It was on another Wasp that was on the Vic Bellett Car Club FB page







Maybe there was a change with grill badge between models like there was between 64 to 65 sedan grill badges??
Perhaps a comparison of Wasp chassis numbers may give an indication??

Although mine is missing the little chrome strip on the centre bar but that Wasp still has it's one

Hi Sticky.
I have a December '63 and a November '65 parts books and both have the same part number listed.
So. Both utes may have had the change after Nov. '65. Has anybody got a parts book that was printed after
'65.

Dave.

Been tackling the rear brakes today.
The rear RH side was pretty well seized up but with a bit of persuasion I got the drum loose enough to get to the adjuster cog so that I could wind back the shoes.
What I found once the drum was off wasn't pretty

I think it had been running metal on metal for quite some time as the steel body of the shoe itself is worn half way through and the drum has 2mm deep grooves across the whole face. So needless to say, the shoes and drum g straight to the pool room
Looks like new rear drums are on the shopping list

Ahh mate, that is extreme! How loud would the squealing have been?

So, do you have any spare drums or shoes?
Matt.

Yeah pulled a couple of decent drums with good shoes off the Tingha ute today + I have a pair of new drums and shoes for the front and cylinders for the rear arriving sometime this week.
Still can't get rear left drum off but will give it another shot tomorrow after work.

After 3 1/2 hours of trying over 2 afternoons the rear LH drum still wouldn't budge, not even half a mm
Tried tapity tap tapping, soaking in WD40, heating with the bottle torch, tapping while prying with a screw driver, soaking with a white vinegar/WD40 mix, more heat and even some naughty words were tried but all to no evail

Time to improvise......
I made some custom arms for a gear puller that I've had sitting in my kit for years (used once for a 2min job) so that it would fit over the drum.
I had to bend the dust cover to get the jaws in (which I will straighten it up again after the brakes are sorted properly) then started winding in the pressure bolt.
It loaded up with a fair bit of pressure when I though....... better put the wheel nuts back on just incase this thing lets fly and takes my hand with it
I kept winding and winding, putting a hell of a lot of pressure on it and thinking, any moment know, when BOOM!!

Very happy to say I still have all my fingers, albeit with a couple of bruise knuckles and the drum was stopped by the wheel nuts (glad I had that thought cross my mind) but the puller and spanner landed six feet away in the yard.

Good news is....... the drum is finally off

SOOOOOO. Don't keep us in suspense. Why or what was the problem.

You're going to post more pics aren't you. I know you will.
Glad you decided to put the wheel nuts on. The puller and spanner must have just missed you.

The grille mould is still available if you need it. I have my utes stored at a friends place. All I need to
do is contact him and go and get it.

Dave.

Well Dave, why and what I don't really know. Whether the hub hole was a few thou to small and locked itself on or whether it was snagged by the tiny bit of damage on the drum hub and hole (4th pic) I can't say for sure but it was stuck on there well and truely.
Yeah really glad I put the nuts on but the puller and spanner just clipped my knuckles as it departed company with the drum. No skin lost, just a couple of slight bruises and change of underwear

Would love the chrome strip for the grill but not necessary just yet as I plan to bring it as farm fresh as possible for everyone to see it as I got it, right down to still having the red dust and grass seeds all through the cab.

Another thing that has caused me some concern right from purchase is how rough it was running.
I had initially put it down to bad fuel and dodgy spark so I have changed fuel pump, leads, plugs, points and condenser.
It ran better but still no guts and miss firing still. I've since pulled the fuel tank and the pick up was blocked by a bazillion grass seeds and rust flakes. Another possible cause along with the stale fuel.
However when taking these photos today something caught my eye in the engine bay that may just explain another reason why........

Can anyone else see something that might not be quite right?? (3rd pic)
I'll test my theory on the weekend when I put the fuel tank back in (silver soldering some pin holes in it atm) and see if I'm right (+ anyone else with a keen eye for trouble shooting detail)

Anywho, here are some photos taken today (especially for you Dave)







Rear shoes weren't as bad as the other side but they were definitely on their last shreds too

Thanks for the pics. Centre of drum to axle face would have been the problem. Very little tolerance in that area.
Had a sedan rear with same problem. Not only damaged the backing plate. Had to use a large drift to get the drum to move. Hence a few small chips to the outer of the drum.
Hook that harness up onto the clips. Yellow/white wire to oil switch. Yellow/black to thermo. switch. Black/red to
dissy. It has been known to have the two yellow wires hooked up to the wrong switch.
Can still bring the mould down to the nationals. Special delivery via Albury.

Just had a thought. If you have a bad ticker don't try this trick. While the engine is running touch the harness.
If it gives you a boot. Change your undies again.

Dave.

Close but no cigar.
They are wired up in their proper places already

Sorry mate. Thought you may have a bit of a pulse transfer to the harness.
Your firing order is correct. 1-3-4-2. Can't see anything.
Maybe someone else will see the problem.

Dave.

I know Sticky, YOU GOT NO BATTERY IT!!! That tells ya lot about my knowledge EH??
Is it to do with the plug lead up against the brake pipe from the brake master cylinder!! OR is the vacuum pipe disconnected??

That's funny right there
The missing battery isn't the issue.
I will try to give it a start up in the morning after making a slight change and see whether my inkling is correct or not.......
CQGT Dave is kinda on the money but hasn't backed the winner yet

I was thinking of the distributor vacuum pipe into the side of the carby, trouble is, I forget most of what I learnt about Belletts when I was youn-ger!
Ted

Hey there mate.
That dizzy seems to be a fair way around to advanced, like a quarter turn. I reckon I'd try byinging it back anti clockwise to the next cam on the shaft, then jump the leads one each clockwise so 1 is still at 1. Maybe. That dizzy just doesn't look right.
Matt.

Um, just checked Doris. It is too far around, but maybe the dizzy shaft drive cog has been installed a quarter turn out?
Hmm....

Hey Sticky,
It's got to be an electrical issue if it's running, but rough or missing. The 12 volt wire to the dizzy looks partly exposed and maybe shorting to earth outside the dizzy..make sure the little plastic insulator block where that 12v goes through the dizzy wall is not cracked, I would find another one and put it in to see if it helps.

As matty said the orientation of the dizzy looks a quarter turn clockwise to where it should be. But I guess it may not run at all if you moved it that much.

Also check the shaft wear in the dizzy. A badly worn shaft can play havoc with points clearance,,,just like a big night at the brothel causing shaft wear may lead to lack of clearance from the missus on future night outs.

And the winner is Farmer Matty
I do recall Mark (the previous owners son) saying that the engine had a freshen up in the late 90's, inc a new water pump, rings and whatever. It then had the points, dizzy cap and rotor button replaced in the early 2000's but apparently always ran rough from that time on.
Perhaps the leads were just put back on one position advanced back then and problem was never corrected??
Come to think of it, When I put new points in last week the neg wire that attaches to the base plate was not screwed on properly either so that would have been an issue for a consistent spark too.

Well time to go out and test the theory....... just need to find a bit of fuel line to run from a jerry can as I haven't put the fuel tank back in yet.


You're a crack up Lewis (Does Donna know what you get upto on a big night out??

BTW but my brake parts arrived yesterday so I have another job for tomorrow too. It's getting close now