well why didn't you put a picture saying you had it ..im out............. have a nice xmas ..................

I had the chart in another topic, you posted it.

Thanks for help and have a nice holiday!

Today was quite a good day.

Reassambled the brake pipes, tried and... the brakes seem to work. Probably some air in the system and need some adjustment, but all of them work at least.

As the missing brakes were the last obstacle before first road testing, I managed to show the car some snow. Not much tough, but better than nothing.

Next chapter will be electicity. There are some problems, probably caused by bad connections. At first, there was no charging, after cleaning the wire connections, it got better. But when driving, the charging light blinked and it was clear that everything is not OK. Main light switch went hot and so on. I suppose I should clean all the connections behind the switches. I believe the charging problem is behind the ignition switch.

Another problem - Both wiper pivots have lost their inner teeth. Any good solution for that? Ari from Finland sent me one, but this has about 1mm smaller diameter. Does any other car have similar system on wipers?

Hello again.

Every time I visit the garage, I seem to find another problem or some. Today I discovered, that one connector on the light switch is broken. That caused the heating.
How to remove the light switch plastic knob? There seems to be some kind of a brad in the knob, but I couldn't figure out, how to remove it.

At least the wipers are OK now. And for the first time, I managed to start the engine (after days of standstill) without any doping. Usually it needed a bit of brake cleaner in the airbox to start.

its easy .....................

Not very helpful... Any hint how to get the brad out?

push the little button on the side under the front of the switch I will take a photo tomorrow for you all is good ..cheers dave

Hi Bellett EST
On the bottom of the switch knob there is a small pin that holds it on. Just press a fine tool ( screwdriver or drift etc ) into the hole and gently pull the switch knob out. Unscrew the chrome ring and the switch will pull through the dashboard toward the front.
Hope this is a little more helpful.
Regards
Warren

good to see the bellett spitit all helping ..merry xmas

The push in clip is the same on the wiper switch. A nail or sharp object. Pushed in and wiggleda bit then as abivescew it out cheersdave

The push in clip is the same on the wiper switch. A nail or sharp object. Pushed in and wiggleda bit then as abivescew it out cheersdave

as warren said push into that hole and pull off the plastic piece with L see how you go on it

Happy 2018 everybody!

Today I managed to visit the garage for the first time since christmas.
It seems I was sucsessful with the brakes, they seem to work now.

Problems keep happening with the electricity. The light main switch is in bad shape, it keeps going hot. I think I need to connect the lights through relay, otherwise the switch would burn down sooner or later.

Could anyone share the electric chart?
And also - what are the nominal amps for fuses? I don't know if I can find same size fuses (6,3x30mm?), but I suppose they can be replaced with 6,3x32mm. One of the fuses seems to be original, 52 years old and working. It has some kind of Isuzu logo inside.

>>>

Thanks for the wiring diagram, got what I needed.

Yesterday I completed the electrics, needed some modification. Brake light switch is broken somehow, seems to connect with the ground. After a while, I gave up and added a button beside brake pedal.

As the light switch is also worn and kept getting hot, I connected lights through relays. Both, park and driving lights. Also another relay for all the additional devices - Window washer, maplight, sockets etc. Everything but parklights are driven through ignition switch.


Another problem with the cabin heating unit. It doesn't blow any warm air into the cabin and the hoses seem to be empty. Is there some tap or valve for the cabin radiator? There is some kind of a long screw on the water pump, does it close the cabin circuit? Tried to turn it, but it was stuck.

It doesn't seem to be too pleasant to have a 1000km winter ride without a cabin heater.

Hello there.
The long screw is the tap, if the hose runs to it. The fitting in the water pump is the outlet and the one in the head is the inlet. Try disconnecting the hoses to see if coolant flows from the pump. If the tap is siezed, take care trying to free it. It is often impossible to remove the tap from the pump as it welds itself in there.(Annodising siezure) I once broke the housing of a good pump trying to remove one, and the car was only 11 years old!
If coolant flows, I would put new hose on and an inline brass tap. I have done this on my Florian as the tap is frozen open. I have to open the bonnet to turn off the water, but its not very often needed.

Good on you for persevering, its been great reading about your rare little car. Sorry about the lack of replies from me, but it is good to see replies offering help.
Cheers, Matt.

hi matt I went back on my postings I had the same problem fortunately I got the long brass tap off the water pump without damage it was froze but I persevered and penetrating spray let it settle then back again to it and eventually it freed up I put it back on the water pump then inside on the radiator for the heater that tap too was frozen I took out the raditor (heater one smallish ) and had a radiator guy take off the tap and replaced it with a new one which are easy avail so I have control inside the cab also under the bonnet at the water pump hope this helps you are getting there .....I can get some photos if you wish cheers davo

Thanks for help.

I'll try to get it moving with penetrating oil.

A little update on the looks, I got a pair of aftermarket wingmirrors. Quite cheap and poor quality, but seem to fit, as the other chrome parts are not perfect either.

Another question about the cabin heater. Could someone explain the lever positions, the labels on my car are in such a bad condition. The right one moves the air flow (floor or window), the left one should be for temperature adjustment I suppose.

The water from the pump goes up towards cabin heater, but the pipes behind the heater unit are bit blocked. I'll try to set them better, hopefully it will bring some heat to the cabin.

Hi from Tasmania
Well we are the coldest state here in Tassie though nothing like you so I run a constant flow through my heater
As you can see in the photo with carbies removed
Top hose return to thermostat housing on head
Low hose feed to heater from water pump
Traditional there is a manual turn brass valve at the head
Some remove and retro-fit an inline valve either manual or cable operated
Regarding levers I just move till I get what's needed where needed
Cheer
J