Has anybody investigated putting a hydraulic strut on the bonnet rather than the existing mechanism?

No Glenn, that's something I've never thought about. Possibly because I haven't ever seen one fail, and every car we've had with gas struts, one or more has failed. And the Bellett is the oldest.

I have however thought about grafting a Bellett body onto a WRX subframe to get all wheel drive and turbo performance! Then I thought, yeah....., nah.
Matt.

Great minds think alike...... I thought many times about grafting similar to that idea !

Yes the Bellett 'strut' is long lasting. But more thinking about various mods one could do if doing anew project. Not that I am !

Or a Wasp body onto a 4WD LUV chassis...…...

Not Isuzu but period..... '69 Corolla with V8. Note its been widened end lengthened. Lost a lot of the cohesive look though.
https://www.motortrend.com/news/1969-toyota-corolla-lexus-is-f-v-8-first-test-review/

Or a Wasp with a tunnel rammed V8 and a chopped roof.....

a wasp with a sting

Or a Wasp with a tunnel rammed V8, chopped roof on a 6x4 Luv chassis with a tilt slide tray

Yes - I have.
I have been collecting struts of all lengths and strengths over the last few months and am going to try and make something up to retro fit some.

It is a work in progress at the moment.

Will be very interested in what you use. Starting from scratch its hard to know what strut to use.

This is what I have so far. I would love to do the boot too.

Soooooo - I have been thinking about doing this for YEARS..........15 minutes later:

And I did the boot

Fantastic, glad i spurred you on !

Do you have any details on the struts use? What are off, length etc. New or second hand.

Hey Glen,

Yes thank you - you certainly did.

Ok here are the details.

FRONT BONNET STRUT:

Calibre CSS311 - new from Supercrap Auto.

It is 500mm from hole to hole extended and 311mm closed.

STEP ONE: You have to cut and grind off the stud on the bonnet side of the bracket and drill it out to 8mm to pass the ball stud through. Prime and paint the bare metal.
Step Two: Measure 318-320mm from the original lower inner guard mount and drill a hole 8mm. Prime and paint the bare metal.
Step Three: Insert the ball end studs in the bonnet and the inner guard and retain with nylock nuts - you MUST strengthen the inner guard with a plate (I used a large washer both inside and in the wheel well area) or the inner guard will flex too much from the force of the closed gas strut.
Step Four: Install strut and test a couple of times and make sure it is not binding.

In my opinion the area on the bonnet bracket is a bit weak and may be prone to kinking as you close it - so I "help" the bonnet closed by pushing near this bracket as well as from the top corner of the bonnet.

NOW FOR THE BOOT.
I used and gas strut from a old desk that had a hydraulic keyboard height adjuster. They are 290mm from hole to hole in the open position (which I think needs to be longer) and 180mm hole to hole in the closed position. With a lifting weight of 12kg. This just bolts to the original brackets with a 12mm spacer on the bottom to align the strut properly.

I hope this all helps.

Let me know if you have a crack to install some yourself and post your photos please.

Good luck and enjoy doing this great upgrade to your Bellett.

No doubt about ya Neil! Modernization!
I admit that I've had to educate people how the boot prop works. Lift, then lower doesn't occur to some people. I've even bought a car that had the bootlid bent where some poor knucklehead had forced it down so hard!

But I'm wierd, I like the click-clack of the mechanism and sproingy bonnet spring sound. Must just be impressed from when I was 8.
Matt.

I’m with you Matt
Click clack never go back
J

Many thanks Neil for the detailed info. Next time i am out i will checkout supercrap...

and report back. Right now my Sport is out being re-trimmed inside so can't do much.

glenn