Commodore VX LS1 Engine Mount Fooked

[Chuff]

The passenger side engine mount on the VX gave up this morning so it's time to get on my back and change it.

I haven't purchased a replacement yet and unless anyone says otherwise I'm getting a genuine OEM item. Anyone say otherwise?

Any tips/tricks specific to changing the passenger side mount on an LS1 VX Commodore I need to know about before proceeding? I've changed a few mounts over the years but this will be my first LS1 so any advice would be very much appreciated.

Thanks everyone.

Chuff

[HQ355]

I'd go genuine or same quality, the std ones took a fair bit of abuse back when they were new (a guy I worked with had a new vx SS ute, 6spd and gave it a flogging daily, that's when I made up my mind to go t-56) just out of interest how do you know the mount is gone ? I've heard a few people say that and it was center bearing on tailshaft

[Chuff]

I'd go genuine or same quality, the std ones took a fair bit of abuse back when they were new (a guy I worked with had a new vx SS ute, 6spd and gave it a flogging daily, that's when I made up my mind to go t-56) just out of interest how do you know the mount is gone ? I've heard a few people say that and it was center bearing on tailshaft

Hey HQ,

I'm with you on the original items. They've taken a flogging and have held up quite well. I can't complain.

Checking if they're broken is easy using the tried and true method:

Open bonnet.
Hand brake on.
Foot brake on.
Jab throttle.
Watch as engine lifts on passenger side.
Watch as engine THUMPS as it drops back down.

Silly me really. I put the boot in it this morning and forgot I had the trailer attached. Spent the next 30 metres wondering why it was taking so long to hook up.

Learnt one thing though. Fishies with a trailer on back feel kind of weird, like being on the end of a Yo-Yo.

Chuff

[vlad01]

same thing happens when you put an engine block in the boot of the old holdens like mine. Turns them into boaty pendulums.

[Jayme]

I changed mine a few months ago.... it was tricky.... hard to maneuver around to get the mount in and out, I may have removed the alternator... cant rememeber lol....

to do mine, I loosened the drivers engine mount and gearbox mounts, and just put a jack under the engine to lift it up enough to get the mount out.... (it was collapsed so not too hard) new one was a really tight fit (not collapsed.... bigger) ... I had to remove something from the engine (coils maybe) to stop them fouling on the brake booster so I could lift the engine up enough to get it in. good luck.

and yes... we found out mine was rooted the same way... a mate felt the thump of the engine dropping after I had the boot into it... im like "ohhhh thats what that is" lol

[Chuff]

I changed mine a few months ago.... it was tricky.... hard to maneuver around to get the mount in and out, I may have removed the alternator... cant rememeber lol....

to do mine, I loosened the drivers engine mount and gearbox mounts, and just put a jack under the engine to lift it up enough to get the mount out.... (it was collapsed so not too hard) new one was a really tight fit (not collapsed.... bigger) ... I had to remove something from the engine (coils maybe) to stop them fouling on the brake booster so I could lift the engine up enough to get it in. good luck.

and yes... we found out mine was rooted the same way... a mate felt the thump of the engine dropping after I had the boot into it... im like "ohhhh thats what that is" lol

Thanks Jayme, this is exactly the sort of information I want & need.

I'm hoping that I can just lift the engine up high enough with the trolley jack to get the old mount out, which I'm assuming is completely collapsed, and still have enough clearance to fit the new mount which of course would be taller. I've read elsewhere that some people have lowered their K-Frames, while others have said it's not necessary, some say you need to remove the exhaust manifold and now you're telling me that I may have to remove the alternator and/or coils to get the job done. I'm trying to understand what's involved so I can decide whether or not I really want to put the car up on stands and crawl under it to do this as I begin my 50th year of life, or is it just a prick of a job and I'd be better off facing the fact that I'm getting too old for this shit and that I'd be better of paying a competent mechanic to do it for me.

Which has just prompted my next questions.

Should I replace both or only the one I know to be defective?

What is a new genuine engine mount worth?

What would it cost to have a mechanic supply and fit it/them?

Again, everyone's input is very much appreciated.

Thanks.

Chuff

[Dylan]

I put a pair in my VZ (manual if it makes a difference) about 12 month's ago. Both mounts out jacked motor up and levered it over side to side. Got a pair from Burson just a aftermarket brand held up fine so far. Fiddly tight spot but probably only took an hour on a hoist with a mate.

[Jayme]

yeah I cant remember if I did take out the alternator or not..I just remember it was a royal pain getting the mount out. may have been easier if I undid the drivers mount all the way and did as dylan said